We leave our Boston apartment Friday and will be in hotels for the next several weeks. What that means, is that we have to finish our food and alcohol supplies prior to leaving Boston. As I write, I am finishing my latest bottle of scotch, so please keep that in mind as I post (drunk-posting?). BTW, how good are apples and Gouda cheese?
Sunday we drove through Essex county and visited the coastal towns of Marblehead, Salem, Gloucester, and Rockport. Marblehead is a very picturesque town just north of Boston. It was settled by folks from Salem who wanted to get away from the strict discipline of the Puritans from nearby Salem town (good idea). They lived in peace and harmony with the Algonquin Indians until infecting them with Smallpox which pretty much wiped out the Indians. Once a thriving fishing center, it is now known as the “yachting capital of the world”. We had a nice breakfast at Haley’s then made our way to Salem.
Famous for the witch trials in 1692, we expected to see all kinds of historical witch stuff. Turns out not much exists from that time, but the city does a good job of taking ownership of its sordid past and provides plenty of educational opportunities…….so we went to the Salem Witch Museum to “Witness the testimony of the hysterical girls, the suffering of the blameless victims, and the decisions of the fanatical judges who sent innocent people to their deaths.” The presentation was a bit hokey (mannequin displays with spot lights and haunting narrative) but it was a good introduction to the events and proceedings. Once the presentation was over we heard a lecture on the history of witches (including the wicked witch of the East, the good witch of the North, and Samantha Stevens) and on the parallels between the Witch trials and other examples of extremism in the USA (McCarthyism, Japanese internment camps). It all ended with a few words from modern witches (called Wiccans) and a trip to the gift shop. Kind of strange hour for us, but fun and thought provoking. Oh, and we bought this cool spooky door bell thingy for Halloween!
Unfortunately the rest of the day was spent driving through thunderstorms so we didn’t get to see much of Gloucester (pronounced “Glouster”, or the native Bostonian “Glousta”), the town depicted in the film “The Perfect Storm”. We did however stop for lunch and lattes in Rockport, another incredibly pretty seaside village. The area reminded us of the Monterey Peninsula…..even smelled the same.
Monday was hair cut (me) and coloring (Rob) day. If you ever need a trim in Boston, go see Matt at Beaucage on Newbury Street. Picked up some sandwiches and spent the rest of the day vegging.
Tuesday we walked down to Charles Street for lunch, then to an AT&T store to buy an international package for our time in Canada (you have to buy calling, texting and data plans separately…that was fun), then frozen yogurt, peanut butter and jelly for dinner, and a nice walk.
Today we took one last long hike around town. Had a picnic lunch at the Commons, walked through the South End/Copley Square area, stopped at the Christian Science Church to see their enormous pipe organ, then through the Esplanade and to the North End for dinner (we’ll do that again tomorrow) at Antico Forno for pizza. Then…..back to the apartment to polish off the scotch. Think I’ll be going to bed early tonight and finish this post tomorrow.
OK, final day in Boston. Slept in (lol), worked out, accompanied Robin to her eyebrow wax, emptied the fridge for lunch (veggies and humus, apples and cheese, half sours, olives, leftover chicken, and triscuits), worked on our itinerary, laundry, packed, and had a great last dinner at Villa Francesca.
Looking forward to meeting Al and Ruthie Pearlman in Niagara Falls!
Here are a few final pictures from our time in Boston.